Under what circumstances when purchasing collision policy is not a wise decision? It's all about the replacement cost; can you get the same car for the money from insurance company.

For newer vehicles, it is obvious that (1) the car worth a lot more, therefore collision policy make sense; (2) the replacement cost is well established and standardized because wear and tear limited and maintenance history is short.

For older vehicles, the value is greatly depended on the condition. If you know the car in good shape, the insurance company will never compensated adequately for find a similar car with same condition. The ratio of premium/deductible/salvage value to the vehicle cash value will narrow as cars age, therefore everyone is tempted the question "when to drop the collision coverage".

Premium = 420; deductible = 500; salvage value (est/) = 2,000? =

Premium liability collision/other than collision for cash value (500/200) = 213

Cash value of a vehicle = $5,000; - costs of policy = 920, net cash value for replacement vehicle = $4,100

Cash value/salvage = 2,000,

The ratio is about 4,100/2000 = 2.0

January 2011 - Acura MDX - Honda 3.5L OBD IAC (Idle Air Controller) Valve P1519

The check engine light came up along with the VTM-4. The engine ran a bit rough at idle, turning off A/C seems to help a bit. It still idle at 450-550 RPM range, running well below the the typical 600-650 RPM range. A few days later, the check engine & VTM-4 light came up while going at 60MPH. VTM-4 light went off after restarts, but the "code" is already registered.

The OBD reader says multiple engine cylinder miss-firing (running rough)? It also says P1519 - Idle Air Controller ....How do I fix it cheaply?

# # #
1. Low on antifreeze?
2. Bad Idle Air control Valve
3. Wiring to the power steering high pressure switch
4. EGR port clogged (almost a definite on the '01-'03 models),
5. Coil pack failing,
6 spark plugs fouled.

Location EGR -
1. take off the plastic engine cover by removing the 4 bolts.
2. turn the 1/2 turn on front plastic cove screw
3. the ERG valve will then be accessible. it is on the driver's side between the engine and the battery.
4. disconnect wiring to EGR, un-latch the connector tab
5. remove 2 bolts holding the EGR to engine block
6. clean up the gasket, if it's stuck to the base
7. apply carburetor cleaner to EGR,
8. ran the engine, engine will run rough, apply carburetor cleaner to open port.
9 apply carburetor cleaner generously, hopefully it get sucked in to clean the engine

Disconnect the battery to reset the code. Ran the engine again.

Rear Main Seal
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

Call professional help -

Engine oil dripping out of rear main seal (engine/transmission join), it accumulated on the bottom of the transmission.

There no leak around the oil pan, there is no sign of leak around the valve covers.

Check the engine and transmission level to confirm.

The transmission need to be drop to perform the repair.
It also require the drop of the steering controls.
After the drop/re-install, the wheel re-alignment is required
Estimated cost $1,300 from local Acura dealer (Gunn Acura), and $900 from the local repair shop (Cars Pro)

FRONT SWAY BAR LINK - rattling noise - over uneven surface
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

A pair of sway bar links (from eBay) - $33 shipped

* remove front wheels

* find a wood block to support the weight of sway bar

* impact wrench - to remove top and bottom screws of the sway bar links

* replace, and re-torque the sway bar links

PCV,
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

Some says, a non-working PCV can cause premature failure of rear main seal. True?

Finding the PCV value, is not easy. It seems to move around from model year to year.

Crush washers
Oil Drain plug washer : 14mm (Inner diameter)

Automatic Transmission Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
Rear Differential VTM-4 Fill : 20mm (Inner diameter)
Rear Differential VTM-4 Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
Transfer case (Gear oil) Fill : 20mm (Inner diameter)
Transfer case (Gear oil) Drain : 20mm (Inner diameter)

Automatic Transmission Fluid Change
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

Some will go through the trouble of measuring drained ATF, and refill with exact amount. I don't do that, it's too much work.

If you park your vehicle on flat ground, allowing the fluid to drain effectively, I will just refill with the owner manual specified amount. In theory, you will not over, or under fill the ATF. For the past 7 fluid changes with this method, the dip stick readings seem to reflect right amount of fluid level.

The transmission system holds approximately 9 qt of fluid (was ATF-Z1, now ATF-DW1). The owners manual calls for drain and refill, not flushing the transmission fluid. Therefore, it typical requires 2 to 3 "drain and refill" to achieve meaningful fluid change. I guess the repeat process of drain and refill is basically "purified" the fluid in the system. I did a little bit math, 3 times of fluid change will get you to around 17% of original fluid in the system, assuming the drain/refill mixes the old and new very well.

The drain plug can be removed using 3/8" square wrench. There is no need to jack up the truck, and it is easy accessible from the front/chin spoiler - inside of fork frame.

The drain plug crush washer - Automatic Transmission Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)

There is an ATF refill plug (17mm) on top of transmission. It is located on the driver side, near the firewall. It is right below the brake fluid reservoir. It is difficult to remove the bolt, even with a long socket extension.

Refill through the dip stick was the way to go. It is a slow process, but it works. - I made a tool for the job. (1) Feed a clear 3 ft vinyl tubing into the the dip stick tube, (2) remove a AFT bottle cap, and drill a hole , feed the vinyl tubing through caps. (3) recap the ATF bottle with tubing inserted. (4) invert the ATF bottle to start the flow. (5) Use a thumb tag, nail to poke a hole on the bottle for venting..

Rear Differential Fluid Change
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

2012.July.29 Note: The vehicle hasn't engage in the AWD mode/off-road at all. The fluid appears to be clean even after 35,000 miles. Can it be done at a longer interval, ie. 60,000 miles?

Need to drop spare to access the drain and refill VTM-4 differential fluid

Always remove the re-fill plug, before remove the drain - just in case, the refill plug cannot be removed.

The drain plug crush washer - Rear Diff : 18mm (Inner diameter)
The re-fill plug crush washer - Rear Diff : 20mm (Inner diameter)

(2 3/4 qt) 1 Gallon Jug of Honda VTM-4 Differential Fluid (p/n 08200-9003)
18mm & 20mm Crush Washers (p/n 90471-PX4-000 & 94109-20000)
Differential Fluid Pump (e.g. Sta-Lube p/n SL4344)
3/8" Drive Socket Wrench (no socket required)
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench (capable of 33ft-lbs)
3/8" Drive Extension

The VTM-4 fluid comes in a 4 quarts jug. I find the

Hopkins Siphon Pump is most efficient way to get new fluid into rear diff.

Drain Pan
Protective Latex Gloves
Safety Glasses

BLEED Brake Fluid
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

Fluid type for 2002 Acura MDX: Acura/Honda DOT 3?
Tools: 10mm boxed-end wrench, for Rear
Tools: 11mm boxed-end wrench, for Front
Tools: AutoZone one-man brake bleed kit

1. Use a turkey baster, remove as much as possible of old fluid from the master cylinder and then refill with new fluid

2. find the bleed sequence (far away from master cylinder to closest to master cylinder).
pax rear, driver rear, pax front, driver front

3. attach the 10mm boxed -end wrench to bleeder screw, and then connect the hose from the bleeder kit to the bleeder nibble,

4. Use the vacuum pump, and get as old brake fluid out until the fluid becoming clear. Don't forget to check the master brake cylinder reservoir level. Refill often. Need to close bleed valve, when emptying out old fluid in vacuum pump kit.

5. repeat the process, for the remaining three brakes

Windshield, front, replacement
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀
Windshield crack of 6 inches or less is eligible for "repair". If the vehicle is cover by "full coverage", it's likely that the repair is covered by the insurance without deductibles.

The cost of front windshield replacement for the MDX was $318 plus tax and misc. fees or $350. A deductible of $200, will result in an additional out of pocket expense of $150. When or how is the deductible forgiveness program play out?

Discount windshield/non-OEM manufacture brand can be had for $100, with installation labor/material will run about $160.00 I find the noise level seems to have gone up a bit.

A/C Heater Blower Transistor or A/C Heater Blower Motor Resistor -
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

The air conditioning unit requires a functional resistor/transistor in order to work. The problem started when the blower stopped /or shut-off on its own. After playing with the a/c switches (manual mode), it worked a bit and then quit working again in minutes.

Trouble shooting - the rear a/c heater blower makes noise (runs) and stop when the rear manual control is turned off. There are two sets of "a/c heater blower motor resistors", it may explains why the a/c blowers worked independently. After checking fuse, the likely source is the transistor/resistor problem. The rear blower unit is located at the driver side, under the dashboard; the front blower unit is located at the passenger side, under the glove box, right next the scroll cage air blower.

After googling the Acura owner user group, it appears to be a common problem.
After researching the auto parts sites like AutoZone, the same part is used on Honda vehicles too.

# # # # #

The local stores don't carry them in stock, therefore an online ordering is needed. Found an Acura dealership offering the part for a lot less than the AutoZone, but there is not "life-time warranty" on the purchase.

I disconnect the wire from the car, and re-connected it to a new unit for testing. AC works again with the new unit. Then the it is good to proceed with the repair.

The unit is held up by 3 metal screws for plastic parts. It's easier to use the socket wrench to remove the screws than using a screw driver.

EGR Valve - Check engine light
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

The check engine light (CEL), and the VTM4 ligh flashed resulting in an problem of EGR valve.

To locate the EGR valve, - remove the plastic engine cover first. There is a small cylinder with an electrical connector on top and secure to the end of one of intake manifolds. The intake manifold is on the driver side, between the engine and the front grill.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7564795_do-valve-2003-acura-mdx.html

WINDSHIELD WIPER
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

The windshield wipers replacements
Driver = 24
Passenger = 21
Rear only = 19

Oil Change
▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

The owners manual calls for 5W-20. The oil refill caps states 5W-30.
5 Qts is the total capacity, and 4 1/2 qt w/o oil filter.

The drain plug crush washer - 14mm (Inner diameter)

Real - 210K/300K miles maintenance (12-15 years old)

▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀ ▀▀

☼ Timing belt service (cam/crank seals, belt tensionor, idler)
☼ Water pump replacement
☼ Serpentine belt change
☼ Spark Plug Changes ; ♦ DIY

☼ Coolant Changes ♦ DIY

☼ Brake fluid "flush"♦ DIY

☼ Engine Oil Change ♦ DIY

☼ Transmission fluid change (no transfer case fluid on the 2002 model) ♦ DIY
☼ Power steering fluid flush ♦ DIY

☼ Rear Differential fluid ♦ DIY

☼ Wiper blades, front driver/passenger and rear ♦ DIY

☼ Engine air filter ♦ DIY

☼ Cabin air filter ♦ DIY
☼ Battery servicing, or replacement ♦ DIY
☼ Throttle body (air mass sensor etc) cleaning ♦ DIY

☼ Polish headlight lens assembly

◙ Engine mounts