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Showing posts with label car. Show all posts
Showing posts with label car. Show all posts

Saturday, March 10, 2012

How To: Nissan Altima Repairs - Head Light / Oxygen Sensor P0420

 -- 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5S      --- 


-- Headlight Repairs/Bulb Replacement -- 


There are 4 fuses 15A for each of the head lights. These fuses are located near the windshield wiper fluid reservoir tank.  The black box, is label with the fuse diagram.

H/L R/H Low
H/L L/H Low
H/L R/H Hi
H/L L/H Hi

--- L/H - driver side headlight -----
replacing the light bulb can be accomplished without remove the entire head lamp assembly.  It's misleading, thinking the headlamp is held up by the 2x 10mm bolts, holding the lamp assembly to the frame.

The short easier way:
1. remove the air filter assembly (unlatch the air filter box, remove air filter, and move/away the air intake)
2. remove the 1 single bolt, connecting the air filter box to the frame.
3. remove the air intake duct sitting on top of radiator (remove 4 plastic tabs), and disconnect it from the air filter intake box
4. pull the air filter intake box, straight up.

Follow the headlight wires, and disconnect the housing, seals etc.  One-for-One swap for new parts.

Fully connect the wires, be sure that the light bulb is properly grounded first. Do not test the lights until, the light bulb is in the light assembly, and grounded.



 -- OXYGEN SENSORS      --- 

The repair manual/suggests the following for resolving ODBC II code P0420:

Service Engine Code  P0420
- check for leaks (affecting sensors), wiring etc
- replacing rear/down stream oxygen sensor first
- replacing up stream oxygen
- replacing the catalyst converter

REPAIRS:

PART 1:  BUY PARTS
      --- AutoZone, O'Reilly  offers BOSH OEM fit up stream sensors for $100
      --- SAME PLACES - BOSH OEM FIT sensor for down stream sensor $90
     ---  get a tube of "high heat" anti-seize compound
     --- A bottle of PB blaster spray to loosen metal/sensors

PART 2:  TOOLS
     -- 10mm and 12mm socket wrench
     --  hex key (to remove engine conver)
       -- adjustable wrench (to remove oxygen sensor)
     - flat screw driver (to un-click wire harness connector)
      -- Floor jack and JACK STANDs (to remove down stream sensor)


PART 3A: - REPAIRS, UP STREAM SENSOR
-- replacing front/up stream oxygen sensor second ( first - was jn error)
* remove the engine plastic cover (4 hex screws), easier access to remove the o2 sensor connector
* remove front heat shield 4 screws 10mm
* carefully unhook o2 sensor wire from the heat shield clip
* electrical connector - rotate/un-clamp (gray)
* use a flat screw driver to un-clip the connector and pull back
* locate the black bracket (holds the sensor and the engine plastic cover mounting point)
* the 02 wire is too short, either (cut it first), or rotate the bracket, so the bracket can be slide off.
* bracket is hold by 2 bolts - 12mm, remove the top one, and loosen the bottom one
* rotate the bracket and un-clip the 02 sensor connector
* remove the o2 sensor on catalyst converter 



PART 3B: - REPAIRS, DOWN STREAM SENSOR
* JACK UP the vehicle safely (passenger side)


 -- Engine Oil Change ----
Oil Type - 5W-30
Capacity - 4 1/2 qts, with filter change
Capacity  - 4 1/4 qts - without filter change
Oil filter - Frame TG7317 (Tough guard 6x of average dirty holding-retaintion)
              or Frame HM7317 (high mileage)



 -- Windshield Wiper Blades ----
02-05 Altima         26 driver / 17 passenger

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Used for Less than $3,000 Best Value for Family Cars - $27,000 or less; Trade-offs, 2 CRV for 1 Q5


May 2013

2010 Honda CR-V EX-L  18KD / 36KM
24KM * 7 + 36KM = 200KM / 20KD  (4HD/repairs) = 10YR @ $1,000 per 10KM

2008 MB E350  22KD/36KM
24KM * 5 + 36KM = 156KM / 18KD (5HD/repairs) = 10YR @ $1,200 per 10KM



























Best value for new (new used) cars


Really! 99 (1999) - 2005 Buick Park Avenue

Great highway mileage - 30 mpg / fairly reliable
Big and comfortable ride, large rear seat legroom





Used Sport Cars - 4 years / 50K miles






(Last update 2012, June)

Used Sport Cars - 4 years / 50K miles
2007/2008 Porsche Cayman
Edmunds.com (T25; P27.8; R30.5)
aol auto 5.8s



Newer Near/Luxury Sedans - 2/3 years / 30K miles

2010 Genesis 4.6 (with sunroof)
Edmunds.com (T26,P28; R29.5)
aol auto 5.8s  CR 13/31/20 mpg


Brand New,

2012 Nissan Altima 3.5S (technology, sunroof, leather)
Cars Direct  - last year model (M=33.5, TMV=27.0)
aol auto 5.8s  CR 17/32/24 mpg






The costs of owning a car go way beyond the initial acquisition expenses.
One would argue how much money do you really need to spend on transportation, and how much of that translates into real meaningful benefits. A reliable CRV 2WD, LX runs about $20K and a luxury Q5 runs over $40K.

A typical vehicles, or cost of ownership, is composed with the following expenses
1. acquisition cost - (interests, payments)
2. Insurance, title, inspections - Some states assess taxes base on the value of vehicle, where as some states treat them all the same.
3. Operating cost -  fuel, repairs
4. Depreciation - when it comes to trade-in, or upgrades, some vehicle depreciates at an alarming rate in the early years and tapered off over time.  Holding on to cars like these a bit longer may lessen the depreciation  cost, but it also translate into higher repair costs.

For example:
2 CRV LX, and 2 Q5 for 5 years, 75K miles


1 & 4 (net costs)
CRV = $42K new, trade-in $22K, interests = 5K = $25K / 5K a year
Q5 = $86K new, trade-in $32K, interests = 10K = $64K / 13K a year

2 (tax, basis)
The difference is minimal, unless you're in the states where tax, fees are based on the value of vehicles

3 (operation cost)
Fuel costs - premium fuel costs more, but it also relates higher performance engine and lower fuel economy.
CRV = 26 mpg
Q5 = 23 mpg
@ 3.30 gallon/regular fuel, The CRV translates 2200 / 400 a year

Repairs?  It's a very subjective measurement.  Honda has been a reliable brand, German cars tends to have many small mechanical problems and expensive maintenance costs.


# # # #
The bottom line = if you have $10K extra of disposable income then having finer things in life is for you.



MID SIZE FAMILY SEDANS
------------------------------

FORD FUSION
CHEVROLET MALIBU
CHRYSLER (200?)


HONDA ACCORD
TOYOTA CAMRY
MAZDA MAZDA6
SUBARU LEGACY
HYUNDAI SONNATA
KIA OPTIMA

VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT






Saturday, December 3, 2011

Product life cycle for cars and trucks

In the early 80's, the Japanese car makers followed a typical 4 years cycle.  Now, it's 5 years with a typical 3rd year face-lift. The luxury vehicles have a even longer product life cycle of 6 years.  The product changes are even more subtle than ever.

No more 1986 Ford Taurus like design changes.

The new vehicles were typically introduced in September, but it new models are coming to market through out the year. There is no more "bargain" model -end discount in the summer.

# # # #

Acura MDX 2011 (6 years) 2007
BMW 3-series 2006 (6 years) 2012
BMW X-5 1999-2006 (6.5 y), 2006-2013
Chevrolet Suburban 8th gen 1973 (19 years) 1992 (8 years) 2000 (7 years) 2007
Lexus LS 1989 (5 years) 1994 (6 years) 2000 (6 y) 2006
Honda Accord 82-85 (4y), 86-89 (4y), 90-93 (4y), 94-97 (4y), 98-02 (5 y), 03-07 (5y), 08-??

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Real MPG, Even used SUV/Pickup Truck Drivers are Rich

Real cost of driving an SUV/Pickup Truck

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/
F-150 v8 4.6L has a real life 16MPG
Accord 2.4L has a real life - 28MPG

A typical F-150 XLT pickup truck runs over $30,000
A typical Accord EX sedan runs about $24,000

Assuming that both vehicles have same residual value, then
over a 180,000 miles lifetime and at an average fuel cost of $3.30 gallon
Ford Truck = fuel 37,125 + truck costs 30,000/tax = 69,000
Honda Car =  fuel 21,215 + car costs 24,000/tax  =   46,700
 
Assuming that both vehicles have same residual value, then
Even driving a used pickup truck with 100,000 miles/trade in @ 200,000, it is the real kicker

Ford Truck = fuel 20,625 + truck costs 12,000//tax-3,000 trade in =30,400Honda Car =  fuel 11,800 + car costs 24,000/tax - 7,700 trade in =  29,650

 ## # # # 
 

What do you expect for your MPG?

On an average of 18,000 miles a year, a typical SUV will consume 900 gallons a year or more.  A typical bread-n-butter family sedans consume 600 gallons or less.  The difference of $500 10 years ago ($1.75 gallon) was worth the "fun, enjoyment".  At the current rate of $3.50 gallon, or $4.00 gallon, the difference become $1000, $1200 a year. That's $100 a month more on gas.

Getting more than 30 mpgs require some serious trade-off.  Want to give up the size? Want to give up the comforts?

At 40mpg, it saving translates to (18,000/30 - 18,000/40) 150 gallons or $500 a year.  It's kind of same questions, want fun/size for $1000 more or give up some comforts/size to save $500?

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Oil Change, Mazda 6 - Simpliest

Changing oil on a passenger car is not as easy as SUV or truck.  With low ground clearance and hard to reach oil filter in tight spot justifies for a professional service.

The Mazda Mazda6 changes all of that.  The drain plug can be reach with my 6 foot body frame, the filter is right behind the radiator and it points straight down with a large cut-out in lower splash/aerodynamic guard.

The zoom zoom makes car driver a car driver and loving the idea of making car serviceable by an average Joe.

Friday, April 29, 2011

Dual Clutch Automatic vs Manual Gear Shift Transmission

Dual Clutch Automatic - is a manual transmission, without use of clutch.  The engaging/disengaging or gear change is controlled by computerized hydraulic system.  The time needed to make a gear change is very quick (milli-seconds).

Automatic - pressure plate is used to engage/disengage engine output/flywheel to transmission?? Nested gears are stacked concentrically.

Ford Focus maybe the least expensive vehicle equipped with dual clutch automatic transmission

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Turbo charged gasoline engines

Audi 2.0 liter turbo
211 HP @ 4300
258  FT-LB @ 1500

Subaru 2.5 liter turbo
256 HP @ 5600
258 ft lb @ 2000

Ford Taurus SHO
365 HP @ 5500
350 FT-LB @3500

=====
Diesel (3.0L MB)
215 HP @ 4000
400 ft-lb @ 1600

American trucks -diesel (6.6L)
390 HP @ 2800
735 ft-lb @ 1600

v10 Chevrolet
360 HP @ 4750
457 ft-lb @ 3250

Monday, February 21, 2011

Seat Height in a Car

As you aged, getting in-n-out of a car may become a big issue. I learned that from many elders.

The relative vehicle height may not necessary reflect the same relative seat height (i.e SUV seats are higher than typical sedans).

Here are some interesting facts ..

Mazda5=
Ford Taurus=
Ford Fusion=
Honda CRV=
Honda Odyssey
Ford Explorer=

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Texas CDL, Class A - in One Week; Class B Exempted; the 26,001 Pounds, Test Prepration

February 2011 - CDL in a Week

I received my CDL A license in 1 week.

Friday - Went local DPS office to apply for Class A CDL.
Saturday - Studied the longest section 2, and air brake, combination
Sunday - Studied cargo, pre-trip, passenger, and tanker and refreshed Saturday's study.

Monday - went in minutes before the 4:30 testing deadline. There was only have time to take 1 exam - the longest general knowledge test.  Finished with 15 minutes to spare before the closing. But no more tests were given out.

Tuesday - went in at the lunch break. No more wait in line, Decided to take the remaining tests (Passenger, air brake, combination, and pre-trip inspection).  Completed and passed tests in 40 minutes.

Wednesday - Arranged for the first lesson. 2 hours.  Lots of explaining about tests, and being reminded about bad driving habits.  Having trouble to get that "feel" of air brake.

Thursday - Started the 2nd 1 1/2 hours driving.  Being reminded about the importance of driving habits again.  Focused on backing and parallel parking. Once the trailer started to drift, It's hard to get back to the straight line.

Friday - Arrange with driving school (using their vehicle) for driving test.  Didn't get to try out the actual test route.  Passed the driving test with a score of 91.  Backing was bad - it drifted, didn't know whether to "go straight" at a tangent, or should be trying to "get back - the straight line".  Having trouble position truck for the left turn.

## ## #

Am I good enough to drive trucks on daily basis? NO, but I know enough to get that CDL inexpensively.

Study = 20 hours (self-study)
Driving = 4 hours (after hours practice in-the-head, parallel parking)
Written tests = 1 hour
Driving test = 1/2 hour
Wait in line at DPS = 2 hours

Total Costs $1,175 (Driving school charges $1,475 - if you take the study preparation)

# # # 

I peeked the driving school study guide on the Air Brake.  Surprisingly the practice questions are nearly identical to the actual tests.   Well - $300 prep class is worth it if you are not good at taking tests.

How did I do on the written exams - 90% plus, except the pre-trip exam. (The CDL handbook and test questions are worded differently). I thought checking for "missing, loose, broken, damage, not working" stuff was the "key", I was wrong.  81% right is good enough to pass the test.

# # ##

My truck driving school instructor keep the material short to the point, the best equipment needed to get that CDL.  The costs and lesson received are well balanced.

Google "CDL Driving School

photos:  hotel/apartment at Warsaw - nearby the train station


 February 2011 -  Class B Exempts



I was making plans to bring the bus home, the obvious question is how or am I qualified to drive this thing, and where am I going park this bus?

People said, you don't need "Class B" license to drive an RV.

I recall my same question to a local RTS bus dealer 10 years ago- He said "register the bus as an RV, the class B test is easy; you've finished college right?- you will pass the test". I didn't understand what was it all about, but his comment got me all excited - thinking owning and driving a bus can be a reality in no time.



This is for real now. I searched and searched the requirement for driving a heavy over-sized RV. It lead to the 2 important criteria when licensing the driver (a) weight of the vehicle (b) air brakes. The bottom line, every state regulates licensing differently. If you qualify to operate the vehicle by your state then the federal laws should grand you to drive the vehicle in other states.

Some states let you drive any size of RV with a Class-C, regardless of weight and air brake equipped vehicle. Some state have added endorsement requirement, and others require Class B.

Since I will driving the vehicle across several states, I shall get licensed by my home state- just in case the highway patrol officers are as confused as I was when I started my research on this topic.

Since the RTS weighs in over 26,000 lb, State of Texas is requiring CDL-Class B "exempted" license if it is converted RV or else - a full Class B CDL.

See The CDL-2 (Exemption Certification) form
It is used when operate a commercial motor vehicle that exceeds 26,000 lbs GVWR and requires a Class A or B license that is exempted by the Texas Commercial Driver License Act. RV is one of the many "exempted vehicle".



June 2009 - Class A B Driving Test


Wow, it has been 24 years since I took my first driving license exam.

I was able to renew my driver license online, and replaced lost license online too. Haven't stepped in the DMV/Department of Public Safety for the past 15 years (since the start of dot.com era), things shurely have changed.

The written tests are done on computers, but the vehicles waiting in line for driving tests are long as I've remember. May be it's summer when teenagers are eager to get their hands behind wheels during school break.

I took a long lunch break and visited DPS office. I waited for 10 minutes in the "Sign-in/Q&A line", to clarify the licensing requirement form the real McCoy. The staff went back to the office to verify the "official response" with colleagues.

Then I was handed the "driver handbook" and told to study the chapter 15 - special requirement for the written test. It's the same book I had 24 years ago, but I guess the contents must have changed/updated over time, right?


I flip to the chapter 15 and the back pages of "sample questions" - a shock finding - the single chapter had nearly 1/3 of the sample questions.

I will be visiting the DPS shortly to tackle the written test.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

All American 2.5L 72" width 190" Length

One of the most common type vehicles sold in America is the mid-size 4 door sedan. Over the years, the Japanese/Asian has dominated this segment of market.  American auto makers have been adjusting to this re-defined market.

The baseline engine is 2.5 liter 4 cylinder variants.
The car width ranges from 71" to 73".
The overall length ranges from 188" to 192".

Most of the vehicles nowadays have same safety features, 6-air bags, ABS, ESC, Brake Assist, and similar EPA fuel efficiency rating (within less than 10% of each others)

Each of the automakers would try to differentiate from each other by creating  different styling, driving dynamics and interior design.

For example: Toyota Camry is for quietness, but not for handling.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Diesel Price Jumps

European cars live on diesel because it gets a lot more miles. Diesel powered vehicles cost more than gasoline variety, but at $5-6 or 7-9 bucks a gallon, the added initial vehicle costs can easily offset by the gain in fuel economy.

It doesn't work for me yet.  Diesel price just hits $3.40 and regular 87 gasoline stands at $2.89.

Here are few items on my check list.

To cover 100,000 miles with diesel @ 25/49 mpg (Consumer Reports) - Jetta Diesel 6-MT
vs
Same miles a gasoline powered Corolla 5 speed manual transmission  @ 23/39 mpg

Diesel City = $13,600 fuel costs
Gas Power = $12,565
-------- It costs more to operate Jetta than gasoline Corolla and Jetta Diesel typically costs $5000 more than heavily discounted Corolla

Diesel Highway = $6,939 fuel costs
Gas Power = $7,410
----- Even though there is fuel saving of 480 over 100,000 miles, but it still isn't worth that $5000 premium.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

When to say goodbye to my Car

When to say goodbye to my car?

1-owner car - it doesn't need repairs, the car hasn't been a flood or serious accident, it is still fairly reliable. Now, the car is approaching the 200,000 miles mark. The long list of "maintenance items" and replaceable items are likely to exceeds the value of the vehicle, then do you keep it, or junk it - and let it be someone else's problem?

Well, the list ranges 3,500 to 4,200 for all the repairs or running the risks of upward $5,500-$6,000. If it is possible, putting off all the repairs, and fix the vehicle as needed. But it also leads to having unreliable car.

# # # #

$600 - cheapest set of tires for 4 $800 for decent tires

$700 - a set of rotors and brake pads, brake jobs
$ 50 - replace new brake fluid

$120 - replace coolant
$ 70 - transmission fluid
$ 30 - oil change
$ 70 - rear differential (4x4/awd gearing)

$ 30 - new serpentine belt
$450 - timing belts
$150 - water pump
$ 15 - radiator caps

$ 80 - spark plugs
$ 40 - electrical wire set
$300 - front and back oxygen sensors

$ 80 - battery
$ 20 - air filter
$ 30 - cabin air filter
$ 20 - windshield wipers

$300 - front struts suspension
$200 - Rear shocks suspension

$400 - ignition coils (if needed)
$250 - alternator (if needed)
$150 - starter (if needed)
$150 - fuel pump (if needed)

# # #

Well, I think unload the car to shade tree mechanics or keeping it as a spare car and doing the maintenance on spare time.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Michelin Tires - Costco versus Discount Tires


Michelin Passenger/Touring Tires

grand touring -all season
Michelin Primacy MXV4 = wet/dry/winter/comfort
235/65/17
60,000 miles  620aa
p235/65R17 $150 ea

standard touring -all season
Michelin Defender = wet/dry/ok winter/comfort (tread)
90,000 miles  820ab,
225/65/17  - $152 ea

passenger all season
Michelin Harmony = ok wet/ok dry/winter
80,000 miles 740ab

Michelin energy saver =ok wet/dry/bad winter
65,000 miles 480ab

HydroEdge with Green X(Passenger All-Season)
90,000 miles wet/dry/bad winter/ok comfort

Crossover/SUV Touring All-Season
Dueler H/L Alenza(Crossover/SUV Touring All-Season)
65,000 miles - $146 ea

Light Truck/SUV Studless Ice & Snow

Latitude X-Ice Xi2
40,000 miles wet/dry/winter/comfort
225/65/17- $140


COSTCO VS DISCOUNT TIRES

I like both tires shops for different reasons..

Discount Tire stores are everywhere.  The wait time is short, asking for tire rotation and re-balancing is easy. The tire selection is plenty.

Costco stores are limited. There are only 3 in San Antonio, TX (I-10 near UTSA,  281/1604 North Loop, and I-35 near Garden Ridge).  The tire selection can be limited (3 to 4 brands).  The wait can be hours for tire rotation and re-balancing.

You can get great tires from Discount Tires, but I feel Costco offers a more consistent higher quality tires - it may not be cheaper than other retail stores, even though it requires membership.

# # # #
At Costco, the tire installation seems to be more diligent (slow) than making check boxes (rushing). At Discount Tires,  I had to ask and remind the mechanics to "check" "verify" of their works.

Costco tires include "road hazardous" where discount tire is an extra fee.  A $20 fee/per tire on a set of new tires will set you back another $80.  The "life-time" tire rotation/balancing is same for both shop, but Discount Tire tag on $2.50/$10-a set to dispose your old tires where as Costco includes that on all inclusive $15 fee.

# #  example  # #
Michelin - HydroEdge® Tire Size: P225/55R17 95T
Costco $155 ea/$620 for 4, $671 with tax and $15 all inclusive fees per tire = $731.
Discount Tires $155 ea/$620 for 4 , add  $10 tire dispose fee, $60 for installation  $86 - replacement/refund + $52 taxes=$828.

That's $97 difference in price.  

This week - Costco offers a $75 off coupon on a set of Michelin, then the price difference is a whopping $178, or $45 a tire.

 # # # # ## 

Tire speed rating and Load rating

Load Range A, B, C, D, E ETC, indicate the number of ply (load rating)

Speed rating -

R - 106 MPH
S - 112 MPH
T - 118 MPH
H - 130 MPH
V - 149 MPH
W - 168 MPH
Y - 186 MPH







Friday, August 27, 2010

Cars Worth Considering

Summary:

The vehicle depreciation rate for an average car relative to its initial requisition is about the same regardless of its purchase price.

above average condition, private party sales
A new family sedan (Camry @ 22,000) after 4 years @ 60K $12,250 (55%)
A new luxury sedan (328i @ 37,000) after 4 years @ 60K $18,500 (50%)

It translates into $2,500 yearly of depreciation, or 1,200 per $10,000
or translates into $1,600 per 10,000 miles


Fact 1: Average miles driven in a year is about 15,000 for a family with multiple vehicles.  Or 24,000 miles for single and likes to travel.

Fact 2: Medium size SUV with AWD capability gets about 20 mpg, adjusted for regular gas is about 18 mpg. Compact size FWD SUV gets 28 mpg, or 25 or so if go on high speed and strong head wind.

For 24,000 miles a year, the fuel cost saving (assuming $3.50 gallon) between a AWD SUV and compact fwd SUV is $1,500 a year, or $6,000 over 4 years.

# # # # # # # # # # # #
Honor Roll
MDX; (U) RL

Misses
TL; TSX
RDX; ZDX







Audi Honor Roll
(U) A8; Q5

Misses
A3; A4; A5; A6;TT; TTS
Q5; Q7;R8; S4; S5; S6







BMW Honor Roll



3-Series; (U) 5 Series





Misses
1 Series; 6 Series; 7 Series; 
M3; M5; M6; Z4
X1; X3; X5; X6






Chevrolet Honor Roll (Gov't-gave GM to UAW, free of charge)



Equinox; (u) Suburban

Misses




Avalanche; Colorado; Express; Silverado; Tahoe; Traverse
Aveo;  Colbalt; Cruze; HHR; Malibu
Camaro; Corvette


Ford Honor Roll






F-150; (u) Flex (In Lieu Of - Chevy Suburban?); Transit Connect







Misses
E-series; Edge; Escape; Expedition; Explorer; Explorer Sport Trac;
Fiesta; Focus; Fusion; Mustang; Taurus;

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Major Tractor Engines on US Highways

BALANCED- Detroit Series 60
It is one of the most common on the road. The D60 is a fairly reliable engine known for its throttle response, clean emissions, flexible torque and high-RPM horsepower. Fuel economy is not the greatest on the road, but the engine's other virtues make it a popular choice for large fleets and owner-operators alike.




TORQUE - CAT Diesel
CAT's popular N-Series motors are expensive, heavy and lack the high-RPM power of some others, but carry on the company's industrial legacy by providing massive low-RPM torque and tank-like reliability. These engines are preferred for those driving in mountainous regions, where steep grades and heavy loads necessitate an engine with this kind of grunt. For heavy hauling in extreme conditions, many owners agree that there simply are no substitutes for a CAT.

FUEL EFFICIENCY - Volvo
Volvo family of engines sacrifice all power and torque in the name of fuel economy. While emissions, reliability and fuel economy are excellent, this engine is best suited for light-duty applications (like buses and cargo trucks) in fairly flat areas where torque is not required.





CHEAP AND COMPROMISED - Cummins
# If ever there were such a thing as a "corporate engine," then the Cummins is it. Cheap to buy and very long-lived when properly maintained, the Cummins offers good fuel economy at the expense of some power.





pictures: 2010 Poland Krakow
plugs: rts2go.blogspot.com
source: My notes from reading www.ehow.com

Saturday, August 7, 2010

5-Year-Old Class 8 Tractor - for $25,000

Having a Class A Commercial Drivers License in hand - I want to get behind the wheel of a 18-wheelers (tractor only) without taking a job.

Shocker #1 - a new truck runs $150,000 - That's a lot of money - It's like paying off a single family - starter home in 5 years.

Shocker #2 - a used trucks runs at fraction of new one - considering the expected longevity of a million-miles truck.


 Many of the 5-6 year old used tractors (with 400,000 to 600,000) runs between $22,000 to $28,000.  I wonder why these vehicles depreciate so quickly.  Will I be better off with an older trucks?

from  $25,000 - base truck
  add  $ 8,000 - transmission overhaul
  add  $10,000 - engine overhaul
  add  $ 4,000  - replacement tires
  add  $ 5,000  - other systems
===================
   Est $53,000  - as if new truck

There are many "integrators" - tractors manufactures, but the engine/transmission combination is total out of this world.  I don't know how can a brand of truck can be price cheaper than the others with the same guts.

Monday, August 2, 2010

305/80R22.5 Tires; Bus Bought and Sold

January 2011 - Bus was sold
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I sold the bus without actually putting any miles it.

I won the bid for a bus that appear to be in good condition. I know what to expect for a bus from the north (rust), the possible mechanical conditions problems (bad tires, no A/C, engine may be require some serious service), so buying without seeing wasn't too much as risk.

After delay and delay (schedule, no license, holiday conflict etc), after 1 year and 3 month I went north to pickup the bus.  The bus had been parked in the same spot for two years, same diesel fuel - not sure it is still good or not, 2 8D battery packs were dead, and re-charged and it wasn't working either.  I hired a truck service to jump start the bus, sort of get it running. Not realizing it has been sucking juice from the service truck, we couldn't get it to run after put in back to right configuration.

Good news - excellent AC, it ran. Engine didn't smoke at all, one would except loose ring everywhere in that DD 6V92 turbo, all air bags hold up, windows were free of frost; and it has low miles 420,000.
Bad news - didn't move the bus to test transmission, tires were badly needed for replacement, door controls wasn't working right, the air compressor were a bit slow to build up pressure (7-8 minutes to build up to 90 psi).

After considering what were the unknown, the expect expenses (tune up, fuel costs, tires) -that calls for a budget of $4500 plus unknown just to bring the bus down to Texas.

Around Christmas, someone wanted to buy my bus, so I left him have it.  It's just too much work/money to make the bus run properly.



Bus Tire - August 2010
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I phoned many freeway/ road side commercial truck service stops like Pilot, Flying J, Petro, looking for my transit bus tires.To my surprise, that (1) - They don't know much about the metric tires, (2) they only carry inventory for the 11R, or truck/trailer tires.  The bus tires or 12R tires are special order items. The lead time varies from 3 days to 10 days.

Well, where do I go for the RV/Bus tires then?

photos: 2010 Germany Berlin
plugs: 782sa.blogspot.com

Update:  2010.08.12
Well, there is no such thing as 305/80R22.5

There is 305/85R22.5
and 315/80R22.5 Tires

I was shooting for tires that don't exist ! Err

Update: 2010.08.18
Suitable Highway Tires (from Michelin)
XZA1   315/80R22.5  75mph, 42.5 dia, 489 rpm
XZA2   315/80R22.5  75mph, 42.3 dia 492 rpm
XZU S  305/85R22.5  65 mph, 42.9 dia 486 rpm



June 2009 - I did it - bought  a bus
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I did it.

I wanted to buy a bus to be used as conversion for sometime now. After 12 years, I jumped into action and purchased a bus over the Internet.

5-6 years ago, I went online and started bidding on bus auctions. But I was not daring to put up high bids to "make sure" I could win the auctions.

I bid low - on buses in bad condition; I didn't get it.
I bid higher than I was planned on buses with highway gearing; I didn't get it.
I watched good buses auctioned off for reasonable prices; I wasn't in the mood to do it.
I saw the RV piled up in the dealers lots, RV workers lost jobs when the gas price hit over $4.00 a gallon; I thought the RV was too expensive for average Joe's.

Now, I am getting older now and a bit more disciplined, or I am better at managing expectations. I always though having a bus and working on the bus will make me happy; as others have enjoyed theirs.

I read many failed conversions, unfinished projects - it also made me feel unease about getting into this bus conversion project. I admire the bus owners for their passions, envy of their skills and have sympathy toward their financial challenges in funding conversions.

After 12 years of on the sideline, and endless of on-and-off “dreaming & planning”, I bought a 40-ft RTS bus on eBay over the Memorial Day weekend.
I am thankful for those had shared their experiences with their conversions - I think I am (bus) wiser now on my own endeavor. May my 12-year conversion project be enjoyable and many others have with theirs.

Friday, July 23, 2010

What's Reefer Oil Change

Reefer oil change, what is that?


I googled the word "reefer", as turn out it's a slang word for drug of some sort according the urban dictionary.

What I had in mind was about the preventative maintenance program (PM) offered at may truck stop/commercial vehicles. In this case "Reefer" refers to the refrigerated container, or shipping trailers equipped with refrigeration system.

The refrigeration trailer/container uses combustion engine to generate the power to run the refrigeration system. It also requires the PM like tractor and trailer.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

What's going on at Hyundai Showroom




TV ads are popping up everywhere about how good the Hyundai cars. The car magazine often give them high marks too.

I was drawn by the Hyundai Sonata because of price, fuel efficiency, and it's ranked higher than Honda Accord and Camry in most criteria. I went to the show room and checked out the car.

In order to achieve the fuel efficiency, all modern cars are slopped so much now, the outward visibility is compromised if you are 6 ft tall. I missed the old Honda from the late 80's and early 90s. The low hanging double wishbone suspension, semi-upright windshield - ultra wide view in every direction. The closest thing to riding a motorcycle. I missed that very much.