The operating condition, or the -xx, 0w-20, 5w-20 etc, the 20 weigh is the one really matter. What is the purpose, of 0w, 5w, 10w of the initial viscosity at cold temperature?
Most of the owner manual allows for the use of single weigh oil, if the temperature is typically above freezing. Then the 0w, 5w, 10w are used when the outside temperature is lowered. So, 0w, can become 5w, 10w and 20w; so as the 5w oil can be come 10w, and 20w etc.
If the temperature isn't too low, then will the 0w oil is actually a 5w weight oil? or it is about providing thin coat of oil is better than having nothing coating the engine at all when the oil is too thick to flow around?
# # # #
Frame oil filter
Xtende guard (XG) EXTRA CAPACITY TO TRAP DIRT
* Tough guard (TG) 99% EFF RATING, SYTH OIL
Highmilage (HM) 95% EFF, MAINTAINING PH IN OIL
Extra Gourd (PH) 95% EFF, CONV OIL
HONDA-ACURA 2004 LATER - most likely = 7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER
HONDA-ACURA 2002 EARLIER - most likely = 3593 SERIES FRAME OIL FILTER
Honda 2011 - CR-V,
0W-20, 4.4qt, including filter,
fuel tank = 15.3 US Gallon
7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER (I.E. TG7317 TOUGH GUARD)
Acura 2002 - MDX
5W-20 (5W-30) 5.0qt (2003-2006), 5W-30, 4.5qt
3593 SERIES FRAME OIL FILTER (I.E.TG 3593A TOUGH GUARD)
ACURA MDX 2003-2006 -
(2003-2006), 5W-30, 4.5qt
7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER
ACURA MDX 2007-2012-
7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER
Nissan 2005, Altima 2.5S,
5W-30, 4.5 qt
7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER
# # # #
ENGINE OIL
CRV 2011
0W-20, 4.4qt, including filter,
7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER (I.E. TG7317 TOUGH GUARD)
Acura 2002 - MDX
5W-20 (5W-30) 5.0qt (2003-2006), 5W-30, 4.5qt
3593 SERIES FRAME OIL FILTER (I.E.TG 3593A TOUGH GUARD)
ACURA MDX 2007-2012-
5W-20, 4.8qt or 4.2qt without filter
7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER
Engine Oil Capacity; Variable weigh oil ..
0W-20 5W-20 5W-30 10W-30 etc
What's the purpose of variable viscosity oil? Oil tends to be viscous at
lower temperature, the engine may not be coated with engine oil quickly
in the early start. Once the engine or the oil is warm up, it should
provide adequate lubrication protection.
The operating condition, or the -xx, 0w-20, 5w-20 etc, the 20 weigh is the one really matter. What is the purpose, of 0w, 5w, 10w of the initial viscosity at cold temperature?
Most of the owner manual allows for the use of single weigh oil, if the temperature is typically above freezing. Then the 0w, 5w, 10w are used when the outside temperature is lowered. So, 0w, can become 5w, 10w and 20w; so as the 5w oil can be come 10w, and 20w etc.
If the temperature isn't too low, then will the 0w oil is actually a 5w weight oil? or it is about providing thin coat of oil is better than having nothing coating the engine at all when the oil is too thick to flow around?
The operating condition, or the -xx, 0w-20, 5w-20 etc, the 20 weigh is the one really matter. What is the purpose, of 0w, 5w, 10w of the initial viscosity at cold temperature?
Most of the owner manual allows for the use of single weigh oil, if the temperature is typically above freezing. Then the 0w, 5w, 10w are used when the outside temperature is lowered. So, 0w, can become 5w, 10w and 20w; so as the 5w oil can be come 10w, and 20w etc.
If the temperature isn't too low, then will the 0w oil is actually a 5w weight oil? or it is about providing thin coat of oil is better than having nothing coating the engine at all when the oil is too thick to flow around?
ENGINE OIL FILTER Frame oil filter
Xtende guard (XG) EXTRA CAPACITY TO TRAP DIRT
* Tough guard (TG) 99% EFF RATING, SYTH OIL
High milage (HM) 95% EFF, MAINTAINING PH IN OIL
Extra Guard (PH) 95% EFF, CONV OIL
HONDA-ACURA 2004 LATER -
most likely = 7317 SERIES FRAME OIL FILER
HONDA-ACURA 2002 EARLIER -
most likely = 3593 SERIES FRAME OIL FILTER
FUEL TANK
MDX 2002 = 18.6 Gallon
MDX 2010 = 21.0 gallon
CRV 2011 = 15.3 US Gallon
Engine coolant Change
1.93 US gal (7.3 L)
Total 2.43 US gal (9.2 L)
Automatic transmission fluid
Change 3.3 US qt (3.1 L)
Total 8.5 US qt (8.0 L)
Rear differential fluid
Change 2.6 US qt (2.5 L)
Total 3.0 US qt (2.8 L)
Transfer assembly fluid
Change 0.4 US qt (0.4 L)
Total 0.4 US qt (0.4 L)
Windshield washer reservoir
U.S. vehicles 4.2 US qt (4.0 L)
TIRES AND WHEELS
http://www.finishlinewheels.com
MDX 2010 = P255/55R18 104H
CRV 2011 = P225/65R17
MDX 2002 = P235/65R17
- Mazda6 2011
- Size: 17x7.5
- Offset: +50mm
- Backspacing: 6.18"
- Bolt Pattern: 5-114
- Rec. Tire Size: 215/55-17
- Weight: 20.1lbs.
Mazda3 2013
Size: 16x7.5
- Offset: 45mm
- Backspacing: 5.98"
- Bolt Pattern: 5-114
- Rec. Tire Size: 205/55-16
- Weight: 21.7lbs.
- Finish: Matte Grey
- Construction: 1pc. Gravity Cast
- Finish Warranty: 1 Year
- Manufactured in Thailand
- CRV-LX
- Size: 17x7.5
- Offset: 45mm
- Backspacing: 6.02"
- Bolt Pattern: 5-114
- Rec. Tire Size: 225/65-17
- Weight: 23.25lbs.
- Finish: Silver Machined w/Clearcoat
- Construction: 1pc. Gravity Cast
- Finish Warranty: 1 Year
- Manufactured in Thailand
Michelin Defender 90,000 miles
Michelin Premancy MXV 60,000 miles
How Do Manufacturers Determine Cold Inflate Tire Pressure
Tire pressures affects couple things
1. load rating - higher pressure increase payload. It is especially
true on commercial truck tires where pressure may range from 80 psi to
110 psi . The difference in pressure could mean extra 1,500 lbs carrying
load per tire.
2. ride quality - lower tire pressure usually provide a better ride.
3. handling - higher tire pressure usually resulting a stiffer tire. Stiffer tires may give better handling
4. rolling resistance - higher pressure - less rolling resistance - better fuel economy
What's the balance? Ride? - Performance (handling, fuel burn, loading)..
I would trade ride quality for better performance.
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
01-06 MDX 24/21 - rear19
09-12 Mazda6 24/18
03-09 RX 26/22 - rear ?
07-11 CRV 26/17
TRUE COST OF 205,000 MILES MAINTENANCE
with simple DYI // 27,500 yearly - 8 yr = 220,000
Oil Change ($30 synthetic + good oil filter)
600 = 25 x 30 @ 8,000 interval ~ 8,500 miles
Transmission ($100 synthetic, drain and refill)
300 = 3 x 100 @ 55K / 110K / 165K / (220K)
Engine/cabin air filter ($20, $20)
240 = 6 x 40 @ 30k, 60k, 90k, 120k, 150k, 180k (210K)
wiper blades ($20 a set @ 2 years)
60 = 3 x 20 @ 55k, 110k, 165k (220K)
battery ($100 replacement @ 3 years)
200 = 2 x 100 @ 80K, 160K (240k)
brake fluid ($25, drain/bleed @ 3 year)
50 = 2 x 50 @ 80k, 160k (240k)
brake pad/front ($150, replace, high quality pads)
300 = 2 x 150 @ 70k, 140k (210K) - rotor is still good?
brake pad/rear ($150, replace high quality pads)
150 = 1 x 150 @ 110k, (220K), - rotor is still good?
Tires ($700, replace with higher quality - 80K)
1400 = 2 x 700 @ 50K / 130k (210K)
Coolant ($40 drain and refill)
80 = 2 x 40 @ 80K / 160K - 3 yr interval (240k)
Power Steering ($20 drain, and refill)
20 = 1 x 40 @ 100K
Spark plugs ($40, replace, pre-gapped spark plugs)
40 = 1 x 40 @ 105k
Serpentine belt replacement ($25, replacement)
25 = 1 x 25
450 Front struts/strut mounts Pads
120 Rear shocks
250 water pump, timing belt, timing idler etc
100 Front O2 sensor
2. ride quality - lower tire pressure usually provide a better ride.
3. handling - higher tire pressure usually resulting a stiffer tire. Stiffer tires may give better handling
4. rolling resistance - higher pressure - less rolling resistance - better fuel economy
What's the balance? Ride? - Performance (handling, fuel burn, loading)..
I would trade ride quality for better performance.
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
01-06 MDX 24/21 - rear19
09-12 Mazda6 24/18
03-09 RX 26/22 - rear ?
07-11 CRV 26/17
TRUE COST OF 205,000 MILES MAINTENANCE
with simple DYI // 27,500 yearly - 8 yr = 220,000
Oil Change ($30 synthetic + good oil filter)
600 = 25 x 30 @ 8,000 interval ~ 8,500 miles
Transmission ($100 synthetic, drain and refill)
300 = 3 x 100 @ 55K / 110K / 165K / (220K)
Engine/cabin air filter ($20, $20)
240 = 6 x 40 @ 30k, 60k, 90k, 120k, 150k, 180k (210K)
wiper blades ($20 a set @ 2 years)
60 = 3 x 20 @ 55k, 110k, 165k (220K)
battery ($100 replacement @ 3 years)
200 = 2 x 100 @ 80K, 160K (240k)
brake fluid ($25, drain/bleed @ 3 year)
50 = 2 x 50 @ 80k, 160k (240k)
brake pad/front ($150, replace, high quality pads)
300 = 2 x 150 @ 70k, 140k (210K) - rotor is still good?
brake pad/rear ($150, replace high quality pads)
150 = 1 x 150 @ 110k, (220K), - rotor is still good?
Tires ($700, replace with higher quality - 80K)
1400 = 2 x 700 @ 50K / 130k (210K)
Coolant ($40 drain and refill)
80 = 2 x 40 @ 80K / 160K - 3 yr interval (240k)
Power Steering ($20 drain, and refill)
20 = 1 x 40 @ 100K
Spark plugs ($40, replace, pre-gapped spark plugs)
40 = 1 x 40 @ 105k
Serpentine belt replacement ($25, replacement)
25 = 1 x 25
450 Front struts/strut mounts Pads
120 Rear shocks
250 water pump, timing belt, timing idler etc
325 labor, timing belt replacement (5 hours @ 65)
100 Rear O2 Sensor
180 radiator hoses, and heater hoses replacement
50 Rear differential drain/refill
50 pairs of headlight bulb
0, 0 Assume, Radiator/Alternator/Starter/Power Steering units are OK
0, 0 Assume, Radiator/Alternator/Starter/Power Steering units are OK
0, 0 Assume, Ignition coil pack, electrical wires are ok
0, 0 Assume, throttle position sensor, air flow mass sensor, ERV are ok
0, 0 Assume fuel pump works
0, 0 assume AC systems work ok (fan blower works
0, 0 Interior works ok
How To Repair:
Acura MDX - A/C, EGR,
[[A]] Rear Main Seal
==========================================
Call professional help -
Engine oil dripping out of rear main seal (engine/transmission join), it accumulated on the bottom of the transmission.
There no leak around the oil pan, there is no sign of leak around the valve covers.
Check the engine and transmission level to confirm.
The transmission need to be drop to perform the repair.
It also require the drop of the steering controls.
After the drop/re-install, the wheel re-alignment is required
Estimated cost $1,300 from local Acura dealer (Gunn Acura), and $900 from the local repair shop (Cars Pro)
[[F]] FRONT SWAY BAR LIKS
FRONT SWAY BAR LINK - rattling noise - over uneven surface
==========================================
[[A]] PCV
==========================================
Some says, a non-working PCV can cause premature failure of rear main seal. True?
Finding the PCV value, is not easy. It seems to move around from model year to year.
[[C]] CRASH WASHERS
==========================================Crush washersOil Drain plug washer : 14mm (Inner diameter)
Automatic Transmission Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
Rear Differential VTM-4 Fill : 20mm (Inner diameter)
Rear Differential VTM-4 Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
Transfer case (Gear oil) Fill : 20mm (Inner diameter)
Transfer case (Gear oil) Drain : 20mm (Inner diameter)
[[A]] AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
==========================================
A pair of sway bar links (from eBay) - $33 shipped
* remove front wheels
* find a wood block to support the weight of sway bar
* impact wrench - to remove top and bottom screws of the sway bar links
* replace, and re-torque the sway bar links
[[A]] PCV
==========================================
Some says, a non-working PCV can cause premature failure of rear main seal. True?
Finding the PCV value, is not easy. It seems to move around from model year to year.
[[C]] CRASH WASHERS
==========================================Crush washersOil Drain plug washer : 14mm (Inner diameter)
Automatic Transmission Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
Rear Differential VTM-4 Fill : 20mm (Inner diameter)
Rear Differential VTM-4 Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
Transfer case (Gear oil) Fill : 20mm (Inner diameter)
Transfer case (Gear oil) Drain : 20mm (Inner diameter)
[[A]] AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
==========================================
The transmission system holds approximately 9 qt of fluid (was ATF-Z1, now ATF-DW1). The owners manual calls for drain and refill, not flushing the transmission fluid. Therefore, it typical requires 2 to 3 "drain and refill" to achieve meaningful fluid change.
(9 - 4 new fluid) = 5 old/9 total, 2nd drain, 5/9 dirty x 4 = 2.x - leaving 2.5 old/9 total = 70% new fluid).
The drain plug is removed using 3/8" square wrench. There is no need to jack up the truck, and it is easy accessible from the front/chin spoiler - inside of fork frame.
The drain plug crush washer - Automatic Transmission Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
There is an ATF refill plug (17mm) on top of transmission. It is located on the driver side, near the firewall. It is right below the power steering fluid reservoir. It is difficult to remove the bolt, even with a long socket extension.
Refill through the dip stick was the way to go. It is a slow process, but it works.
[[R]] REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE
The transmission system holds approximately 9 qt of fluid (was ATF-Z1, now ATF-DW1). The owners manual calls for drain and refill, not flushing the transmission fluid. Therefore, it typical requires 2 to 3 "drain and refill" to achieve meaningful fluid change.
(9 - 4 new fluid) = 5 old/9 total, 2nd drain, 5/9 dirty x 4 = 2.x - leaving 2.5 old/9 total = 70% new fluid).
The drain plug is removed using 3/8" square wrench. There is no need to jack up the truck, and it is easy accessible from the front/chin spoiler - inside of fork frame.
The drain plug crush washer - Automatic Transmission Drain : 18mm (Inner diameter)
There is an ATF refill plug (17mm) on top of transmission. It is located on the driver side, near the firewall. It is right below the power steering fluid reservoir. It is difficult to remove the bolt, even with a long socket extension.
Refill through the dip stick was the way to go. It is a slow process, but it works.
[[R]] REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE
==========================================
2012.July.29 Note: The vehicle hasn't engage in the AWD mode/off-road at all. The fluid appears to be clean even after 35,000 miles. Can it be done at a longer interval, ie. 60,000 miles?
Need to drop spare to access the drain and refill VTM-4 differential fluid
Always remove the re-fill plug, before remove the drain - just in case, the refill plug cannot be removed.
The drain plug crush washer - Rear Diff : 18mm (Inner diameter)
The re-fill plug crush washer - Rear Diff : 20mm (Inner diameter)
(2 3/4 qt) 1 Gallon Jug of Honda VTM-4 Differential Fluid (p/n 08200-9003)
18mm & 20mm Crush Washers (p/n 90471-PX4-000 & 94109-20000)
Differential Fluid Pump (e.g. Sta-Lube p/n SL4344)
3/8" Drive Socket Wrench (no socket required)
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench (capable of 33ft-lbs)
3/8" Drive Extension
Drain Pan
Protective Latex Gloves
Safety Glasses
[[B]] BLEED BRAKE FLUID
2012.July.29 Note: The vehicle hasn't engage in the AWD mode/off-road at all. The fluid appears to be clean even after 35,000 miles. Can it be done at a longer interval, ie. 60,000 miles?
Need to drop spare to access the drain and refill VTM-4 differential fluid
Always remove the re-fill plug, before remove the drain - just in case, the refill plug cannot be removed.
The drain plug crush washer - Rear Diff : 18mm (Inner diameter)
The re-fill plug crush washer - Rear Diff : 20mm (Inner diameter)
(2 3/4 qt) 1 Gallon Jug of Honda VTM-4 Differential Fluid (p/n 08200-9003)
18mm & 20mm Crush Washers (p/n 90471-PX4-000 & 94109-20000)
Differential Fluid Pump (e.g. Sta-Lube p/n SL4344)
3/8" Drive Socket Wrench (no socket required)
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench (capable of 33ft-lbs)
3/8" Drive Extension
Drain Pan
Protective Latex Gloves
Safety Glasses
[[B]] BLEED BRAKE FLUID
==========================================
Fluid type for 2002 Acura MDX: Acura/Honda DOT 3?
Tools: 10mm boxed-end wrench, for Rear
Tools: 11mm boxed-end wrench, for Front
Tools: AutoZone one-man brake bleed kit
1. Use a turkey baster, remove as much as possible of old fluid from the master cylinder and then refill with new fluid
2. find the bleed sequence (far away from master cylinder to closest to master cylinder).
pax rear, driver rear, pax front, driver front
3. attach the 10mm boxed -end wrench to bleeder screw, and then connect the hose from the bleeder kit to the bleeder nibble,
4. slowly pump the brake pedal, open the bleed screw, and continue to pump the brakes until the fluid color changes (old, and the new). tighten the bleed screw. disconnect the hose, Check and master cylinder with fluid.
5. repeat the process, for the remaining three brakes
[[W]] CRACKED WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT
==========================================
Windshield crack of 6 inches or less is eligible for "repair". If the vehicle is cover by "full coverage", it's likely that the repair is covered by the insurance without deductibles.
The cost of front windshield replacement for the MDX was $318 plus tax and misc. fees or $350. A deductible of $200, will result in an additional out of pocket expense of $150. When or how is the deductible forgiveness program play out?
Discount windshield/non-OEM manufacture brand can be had for $100, with installation labor/material will run about $160.00
[[A]] A/C HEATER BLOWER TRANSISTOR; BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR
==============================================================
The air conditioning unit requires a functional resistor/transistor in order to work. The problem started when the blower stopped /or shut-off on its own. After playing with the a/c switches (manual mode), it worked a bit and then quit working again in minutes.
Trouble shooting - the rear a/c heater blower makes noise (runs) and stop when the rear manual control is turned off. There are two sets of "a/c heater blower motor resistors", it may explains why the a/c blowers worked independently. After checking fuse, the likely source is the transistor/resistor problem. The rear blower unit is located at the driver side, under the dashboard; the front blower unit is located at the passenger side, under the glove box, right next the scroll cage air blower.
After googling the Acura owner user group, it appears to be a common problem.
After researching the auto parts sites like AutoZone, the same part is used on Honda vehicles too.
# # # # #
The local stores don't carry them in stock, therefore an online ordering is needed. Found an Acura dealership offering the part for a lot less than the AutoZone, but there is not "life-time warranty" on the purchase.
I disconnect the wire from the car, and re-connected it to a new unit for testing. AC works again with the new unit. Then the it is good to proceed with the repair.
The unit is held up by 3 metal screws for plastic parts. It's easier to use the socket wrench to remove the screws than using a screw driver.
[[E]] EGR VALVE - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
==========================================================
The check engine light (CEL), and the VTM4 ligh flashed resulting in an problem of EGR valve.
To locate the EGR valve, - remove the plastic engine cover first. There is a small cylinder with an electrical connector on top and secure to the end of one of intake manifolds. The intake manifold is on the driver side, between the engine and the front grill.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7564795_do-valve-2003-acura-mdx.html
[[W]] WINDSHIELD WIPERS
==========================================Fluid type for 2002 Acura MDX: Acura/Honda DOT 3?
Tools: 10mm boxed-end wrench, for Rear
Tools: 11mm boxed-end wrench, for Front
Tools: AutoZone one-man brake bleed kit
1. Use a turkey baster, remove as much as possible of old fluid from the master cylinder and then refill with new fluid
2. find the bleed sequence (far away from master cylinder to closest to master cylinder).
pax rear, driver rear, pax front, driver front
3. attach the 10mm boxed -end wrench to bleeder screw, and then connect the hose from the bleeder kit to the bleeder nibble,
4. slowly pump the brake pedal, open the bleed screw, and continue to pump the brakes until the fluid color changes (old, and the new). tighten the bleed screw. disconnect the hose, Check and master cylinder with fluid.
5. repeat the process, for the remaining three brakes
[[W]] CRACKED WINDSHIELD REPLACEMENT
==========================================
Windshield crack of 6 inches or less is eligible for "repair". If the vehicle is cover by "full coverage", it's likely that the repair is covered by the insurance without deductibles.
The cost of front windshield replacement for the MDX was $318 plus tax and misc. fees or $350. A deductible of $200, will result in an additional out of pocket expense of $150. When or how is the deductible forgiveness program play out?
Discount windshield/non-OEM manufacture brand can be had for $100, with installation labor/material will run about $160.00
[[A]] A/C HEATER BLOWER TRANSISTOR; BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR
==============================================================
The air conditioning unit requires a functional resistor/transistor in order to work. The problem started when the blower stopped /or shut-off on its own. After playing with the a/c switches (manual mode), it worked a bit and then quit working again in minutes.
Trouble shooting - the rear a/c heater blower makes noise (runs) and stop when the rear manual control is turned off. There are two sets of "a/c heater blower motor resistors", it may explains why the a/c blowers worked independently. After checking fuse, the likely source is the transistor/resistor problem. The rear blower unit is located at the driver side, under the dashboard; the front blower unit is located at the passenger side, under the glove box, right next the scroll cage air blower.
After googling the Acura owner user group, it appears to be a common problem.
After researching the auto parts sites like AutoZone, the same part is used on Honda vehicles too.
# # # # #
The local stores don't carry them in stock, therefore an online ordering is needed. Found an Acura dealership offering the part for a lot less than the AutoZone, but there is not "life-time warranty" on the purchase.
I disconnect the wire from the car, and re-connected it to a new unit for testing. AC works again with the new unit. Then the it is good to proceed with the repair.
The unit is held up by 3 metal screws for plastic parts. It's easier to use the socket wrench to remove the screws than using a screw driver.
[[E]] EGR VALVE - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
==========================================================
The check engine light (CEL), and the VTM4 ligh flashed resulting in an problem of EGR valve.
To locate the EGR valve, - remove the plastic engine cover first. There is a small cylinder with an electrical connector on top and secure to the end of one of intake manifolds. The intake manifold is on the driver side, between the engine and the front grill.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7564795_do-valve-2003-acura-mdx.html
[[W]] WINDSHIELD WIPERS
The windshield wipers replacements
Driver = 24
Passenger = 21
Rear only = 19
[[O]] OIL CHANGE
==========================================Driver = 24
Passenger = 21
Rear only = 19
[[O]] OIL CHANGE
The owners manual calls for 5W-20. The oil refill caps states 5W-30.
5 Qts is the total capacity, and 4 1/2 qt w/o oil filter.
The drain plug crush washer - 14mm (Inner diameter)
[[REAL]] 105K/210K MAINTENANCE
==============================================
035 OIL CHANGE AND FILTER
045 REAR DIFFERENTIAL
150 TRANSMISSION FLUID
045 BRAKE FLUID DRAIN
030 POWER STEERING (DRAIN-FILL)
085 ENGINE COOLANT DRAIN/REFILL
5 Qts is the total capacity, and 4 1/2 qt w/o oil filter.
The drain plug crush washer - 14mm (Inner diameter)
[[REAL]] 105K/210K MAINTENANCE
==============================================
035 OIL CHANGE AND FILTER
045 REAR DIFFERENTIAL
150 TRANSMISSION FLUID
045 BRAKE FLUID DRAIN
030 POWER STEERING (DRAIN-FILL)
085 ENGINE COOLANT DRAIN/REFILL
015 RADIATOR CAP
140 HOSES/HEATER REPLACEMENT
025 CABIN AIR FILTER
025 ENGINE AIR FILTER
125 BATTERY, 3 YEARS
========================
720 - MECHANICAL EXPECTED
100 SPARK PLUGS REPLACEMENT
675 TIMING BELT/IDLER, WATER PUMP
015 THERMOSTATS
050 SERPENTINE BELT
================================830 - ENGINE RELATED
340 BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS (ALL 4 CORNERS)
740 A SET OF GOOD TIRES
200 REAR SHOCKS REPLACE
420 FRONT STRUTS AND PADS
================================
1700 - ENGINE RELATED
300 OXYGEN SENSORS
360 ignition coil 6 in a set
330 ALTERNATOR
350 STARTER
050 HIGH POWER LIGHT BULBS
360 ignition coil 6 in a set
330 ALTERNATOR
350 STARTER
050 HIGH POWER LIGHT BULBS
[[A]] CR-V : ALTERNATOR
=====================================
1 Loosen the power steering reservoir tank
2 Use box wrench to the tension; and and extra long attach arm for additional levage
3. loosen the serpentine belt
4 Disconnect battery
5 Disconnect power leads/connector to the alternator
6 disconnect alternator (two locations - bolts)
---
re-install alternator in reverse process
November 2009 = Synthetic Motor Oil Vs Regular Oil
The famous Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor oil was promoted as a far more superior product than the conventional, petroleum based; it's used as OEM oil for Corvette, BMW M's and the famous Model 76 Rutan Voyager.
The famous Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor oil was promoted as a far more superior product than the conventional, petroleum based; it's used as OEM oil for Corvette, BMW M's and the famous Model 76 Rutan Voyager.
In
the past, full synthetic costs 3 times more than the conventional oil,
now it's only about 1.5 times to 2 times. The longer usage cycle of
synthetic oil didn't justify the cost, but now it seems to have hit the
sweet pot at the market place.
What other factors have lead me to change of heart, adapting the use of synthetic oil?
1. The car being tested is a 2002 with 120,000 miles. It's suitable for this test.
2. The newer vehicle seems to build better than the past, it doesn't burn oil like it once was, even for older vehicles.
3.
The factory is calling for lighter fluid, 5W-20, 5W-30, instead of
10W-30 and 10W-40. The argument of thinner oil may not lube all the
parts completely doesn't make much sense, unless someone actual conduct a
test proofing that (5W30 conventional flow differently than 5W30
synthetic in the engine block).
4. The oil
lube shops are asking for "conventional or synthetic". It led me to
believe that the time has come- the current vehicles are ready for
synthetic. It's no longer exclusive to high-end, specialty vehicles
anymore.
5. Lube shops charge way too much
for synthetic than the actual what it is worth. It's make sense for
doing own oil change again.
March 2012 - Pricing for Oil Change - Is that right?
The oil change used to very inexpensive, when Wal-Mart offers the basic $16 with non-brand name oil filters and API-quality oil. Now the latest pricing -
$30 - basic
$40 - for high mileage
$55 - synthetic
Even the popular Frame oil filters are priced according to 3 level of protections.
# # #
Is it worth the trouble to do the oil change by yourself? Is there an advantage to do it on your own?
For the basic oil change/basic filter - there is about labor $15 fee, and
for the synthetic oil change/advanced filter kit - there is about $30 fee.
Therefore, do it only if there is "real money" to be saved - don't forget to pay yourself.
February 2011 - Oil Change - Discount Stores & Auto Parts Store
The oil change used to very inexpensive, when Wal-Mart offers the basic $16 with non-brand name oil filters and API-quality oil. Now the latest pricing -
$30 - basic
$40 - for high mileage
$55 - synthetic
# #
Even the popular Frame oil filters are priced according to various levels of protection.
? extra
? tough
? high mileage
? extended
The filter runs from $5 to as much as $9 a piece
The brand name engine oils in 5 qt containers ranges from
$10-$12 - standard
$12-$15 - high mileage
$21-$25 - synthetic oiler
# # #
DIY saves about ($30 - $5 filter - $10 oil) = $15 on standard oil changes &
as much as ($55 - $9 filter - $21 oil) = $25 on synthetic
If you drive pass the auto parts stores like
O'Reilly, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto Parts etc,
Pay attention to the huge windows sign on "oil and filter" special.
The last great deal I found was at the O'Reilly.
The Mobile 1 - filter and 5 qts of synthetic store brand API highest rated oil for $12.99.. That's about $13 cheaper than the cheapest combo at Wal-Mart. That really make the DIY oil change worth while. $30 saving for 1/2 hour worth of work and you know you will do it right.
The oil change used to very inexpensive, when Wal-Mart offers the basic $16 with non-brand name oil filters and API-quality oil. Now the latest pricing -
$30 - basic
$40 - for high mileage
$55 - synthetic
